While interest in fermentation-produced products grows, two Puerto Rican scientists are leading the production of food using this process, seeking to promote gut health. And one of the companies, Vaca Negra, in Hatillo, was recently recognized nationally for its agrotourism ferments.
Bacterial fermentation allows for the development of several critical products made in Puerto Rico, such as rum, maví, and beer. It is a chemical reaction by which microorganisms break down carbohydrates into smaller molecules like alcohol. The reaction occurs without the presence of oxygen, and it is the basis of many other biological processes.
Artisan cheese and yogurt are other exemplary ferments that contribute to the diversity of intestinal flora.
Founded by microbiologist Wanda Otero Flores, the cheese factory Vaca Negra has been dedicated to making artisan cheeses for the past 18 years.
In late July, the founder was invited to present her agrotourism model at the conference on value-added dairy products in the southeastern United States.
“They asked us to explain our model of artisan cheese-making tourist workshops, which is unique in the world. During the workshop, each person creates their own two-pound cheese with spices of their choice, and leaves it to ferment in our cellar for two months,” Otero Flores shared.
The conference venue was the University of Tennessee, and it brought together dairy farmers, investors, and agriculturalists working in the dairy industry.
“The dairy industry is the only sustainable one in Puerto Rico; we can supply the entire demand. With our cheeses, we add value to local milk and extend its shelf life,” Otero Flores highlighted.
Although cheese production takes two months, they then last between 40 and 60 additional days in the refrigerator. They are made using bacteria that convert lactose into lactic acid as an energy source.
“The final product has a high content of microorganisms and is beneficial for the intestinal tract, immune system, and general health,” Otero Flores added.
“Many industries use (fermentation). Coffee is also fermented in its development process, something we are learning changes its flavor,” explained Dr. Paul Bayman, professor at the University of Puerto Rico, Río Piedras Campus.
On the other hand, La Fermentá, founded in 2020 by Jermary Lastra and her husband Franklin Sánchez, aims to turn fermented foods into a dietary tool against inflammation.
Lastra suffers from endometriosis, an inflammatory condition that impacts the uterus and immune system. During the COVID-19 pandemic, she faced great difficulty in obtaining anti-inflammatory foods that would not exacerbate her condition.
“I had to switch to a vegan diet for a while, but we saw how difficult it was to go out and find food, so we have to make it at home,” she added.
This reason inspired her to start making fermented products from her farm.
“We make sourdough breads, focaccia, ‘cinnamon rolls’ with a focus on gastrointestinal health. We do not use refined sugar, because our goal is to continue promoting good nutrition,” Lastra stated.
“Mostly we use products from our farm in Carolina, and if not, we collaborate with other farmers to work together with local production,” she continued.
Although they had been making ferments since 2016, Lastra highlighted that interest in the microbiome (the microorganisms that inhabit the body) and its contribution to health increased since 2020.
“That link between gut health and diet created a ‘boom,’ especially with kombucha, which was our first ferment,” Lastra mentioned. “Oats, nuts, and other products also help nourish that ecosystem we have in our gut.”
Fermentation holds a special place in Lastra's heart. Since her youth, she heard her grandfather associate fermentation with expired foods.
“That's where the name La Fermentá came from; this is my way of changing that idea that fermented food is bad or spoiled,” she added, smiling.
Lastra studied molecular cell biology, chemistry, and prenatal care, knowledge that she asserts influences her fermentation practice. She uses pH meters to monitor the acidity of her ferments, as well as specialized containers that release the pressure of gases generated during the fermentation process.
Her co-founder, Sánchez, adds that fermentation also has an emotional value: “What enriches me the most is sharing with people… It fills me with joy when we come to markets and share with people who come from far away for us, from Isabela, Arecibo. We didn't know the impact this would have.”